Because why not?

Double Cleansing.

23 May 2014
I'm not an Aesthetician. I wish I was, while makeup is my first love skin care follows closely behind, everything I know about the skins inner workings is self taught. Now we are clear.

When I apply makeup to women (and sometimes even men) I get asked a LOT of questions about skin and it's not limited to the skin on the face, I've been asked to look at rashes, bumps, lumps and spots on all sorts of areas on the body, but those are stories for another time. I think this stems from a level of trust that is developed when I discuss with my clients the removal of their makeup because after I apply; I educate on removal.

I use many products that are designed to stay on the skin through tough conditions; sweat, tears, hot lights, rain or 12 hour long photo shoots. People pay me for a temporary service but they don't want their face of makeup to disappear after just a couple of hours. I try to use the super glue of the makeup world. These days women are also crying out for long lasting products for their personal use, the majority of quality makeup produced these days will stick on your skin damn well and some are even difficult to remove completely when you want them off your face.

When I talk to someone about makeup removal the first thing I say is:
"This stuff is designed to stay on your face, if you don't remove it all properly it will sit on your skin until it eventually wears away. Some stuff won't wear away for days" I then discuss what I think is the best makeup removal and skin cleansing routine for that client.
I usually receive one of two replies to this:
"Ok, I'll make sure I wash my face well"
"So I can wear this makeup for days?"
The first reply tells me that I am in the presence of a sane woman. The second reply freaks me out. It freaked me out the first time I heard it and it continues to freak me out to this day. When I hear reply number two I try my best to calmly explain that it's never a good idea to sleep in makeup or wear it for any longer than is necessary and if they happened to complain about spots, dullness, texture or just about anything related to their skin I point out that not cleansing properly could be causing or adding to these issues. I pray that they will see the light and save my skin-crawly-grossed-out dance for the car.

Skin-crawly-grossed-out dance. Repeat until you feel clean.
Double cleansing is the process of removing makeup followed by washing your face, most of us already do it but the types of products you would use to do this can make a world of difference to your skin. You should be double cleansing if; A) You are wearing makeup or B) You are wearing sunscreen. If you wear neither of these products a single cleanse is just fine!
Here are the basics of what I tell my clients, based on their skin type, to ensure there is no makeup on their face at the end of the day.

Dry or Mature Skin

Makeup removal: Use an oil, balm or milk cleanser, not only do they move even the toughest of makeup but they won't strip your skin of its natural oils.

Final Cleanse: Balm or cream cleanser all the way, remove with a hot cloth if using a balm that doesn't emulsify.

Normal Skin

Makeup Removal: You're blessed, you can use just about anything you want for makeup removal. Except wipes, seriously, they should be for when you are away from home only. I still support and oil or milk cleanser with this skin type because they remove makeup really well but are so gentle on the skin.

Final Cleanse: Again, blessed. Use what works but avoid the really harsh detergent like cleansers. I think a light cream cleanser or a milk facial wash is great especially if you are nearing or past 30 but a light foaming wash is ok too.

Oily or Combination Skin

Makeup Removal: Avoid wipes or anything with alcohol, these will actually dry out your skin and cause it to produce more oil. Get out of the vicious circle and try cleaning with a light oil cleanser that emulsifies or a milk cleanser, these will whisk away your makeup easily but not strip it.

Final Cleanse: This is where the real skin drying damage is done, if you absolutely can't stop using foaming products then you need one that is gentle, foaming cream cleansers are available and this would be my recommendation if you need that foamy feeling. If you're willing to make a huge turn around then try a standard cream cleanser, usually within a week you should see a difference in the hydration level of your skin.

Acne Prone Skin

Makeup Removal: This is a tough one and you have it the hardest, Wipes are a no go for sure! I would suggest a light milk cleanser (if you also have dry patches) or a standard makeup removing liquid (if you're oily), check that it doesn't contain alcohol though, there is no need to dry out your skin at this stage.

Final Cleanse: If you used a prescribed cleanser or targeted product then this is the time to whip it out. If your skin is oily you want to avoid the targeted products that have harsh foaming abilities, if it creates a soft and lightly bubbly foam it's good but if it could potentially create a bubble bath then it's too much, if you are treating your acne with a cream or medication that dries out your skin then you also need to nourish it so take that in to consideration as a milk or cream cleanser could also suit you, there are many available that don't leave a residue on the skin if that concerns you, they just clean your face without taking away the essential oils that it needs.

Don't use cleansers that do this.

Some points to consider:
  • Using two makeup wipes is not a double cleanse, it's the equivalent to thinking it's ok to air out your dirty underwear but not actually wash it. The time to use wipes is when you're out camping, on the road or plane or when you're so drunk that you have to close one eye to see straight 
  • If you don't want to buy two products for cleansing that's ok, if you like using a milk to remove and a milk to wash you can use the same product, just do it twice. The first time gets the makeup off, the second ensures that you didn't miss anything.
  • If your current routine is working for you, there is no need to change it!
What are your all time favourite cleansing products?

Links provided are for shopping examples only, I have personally purchased from some (not all) of these online stores but I highly recommend researching before buying. Items marked * were sent to me for trial and consideration, all other products were purchased by myself and I am in no way affiliated with any of the companies mentioned unless otherwise stated. All opinions are my own and based on my personal experience. Integrity Always..

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